he hardware/software used in this how to:
MegaSquirt v3.0 PCB w/ MS-II CPU
Modded with an extra ignition driver and the MapDaddy 4 Bar MAP Sensor with Barometric Correction
MSnS-E v2.0.1 firmware
TunerStudioMS
MegaLogViewer
A laptop with a serial port, or if you only have USB ports I highly suggest the Keyspan USA-19HS USB/Serial adapter.


Some basics:
can use the stock coolant & inlet air temp sensors, stock TPS, stock VR sensor, stock hall sensor (not needed unless you want to do sequential coil on plug or better control over semi-sequential fuel injection - adding the hall sensor requires more hardware mods to the MS PC
In order to keep the tacho working, you'll need to keep the stock ECU in the car, and split the VR sensor into two connections, one going to the stock ECU and the other to the MegaSquirt. If you want to get rid of the stock ECU, you could buy a tacho output kit for the MegaSquirt. I've never tried that though.
you'll get rid of your mass airflow sensor, but need to run a vacuum line to the ECU's map sensor.
MS2/Extra supports closed loop boost control using a valve like the N75 but I have not got around to that yet and won't cover that here.


Fuel:

This is a batch fire system. That means that there are two injector outputs on the ECU, and each one drives a pair of injectors.

I recommend going with 2 squirts / alternating, and wiring output 1 to injectors 1/3 and output 2 to injectors 2/4.



Ignition:
You'll be using a wasted spark ignition, so you'll need to buy these three things:
034 High Output 4-Cyl Waste Spark Coil
Wire Set, VW 16v for 034 Wastespark Coil
1.8t Plug Wire Adapter
*You can use just about any 4-cylinder wasted spark coil pack & plug wires, I just like the 034 because they sell the matching plug wires and adapters...and we know what dwell it's good for (up to 4ms according to Javad)
**MS2/Extra does support sequential coil on plug ignition using stock AEB coil packs, but at this time it causes the amount of cranking time required to start the car to go way up, so I'd stay away from it for now. It also requires additional hardware mods (2 more ignition drivers, and an input circuit for the hall sensor.)


The important stuff!





Here's a timing map to get you started:

Code:
260 9 9 9 9 8 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
230 9 8.8 8 8 8 7.5 7.5 8 8 8 8 8
200 12 12 12 12 12 11 11 11 11.5 11.5 11.5 11.5
150 10 10.8 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16
100 10 10.8 20 20 20 20 20 28 28 28 28 28
80 10 16 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
70 10 16 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
60 10 16 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
50 10 16 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
40 10 15 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
30 10 15 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
20 10 15 28 28 28 28 28 35 35 35 35 35
700 800 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 4000 4500 5000 6000 7000Caveats:

Just like any other standalone, it won't work on a DBW car unless you convert it to cable-throttle
You won't be able to use your air conditioning
Your car will not pass OBD-II inspection
Doesn't seem to support the stock throttle body's built in idle control.
Issues when using low-impedance injectors without resistors.
Lack of a good knock detection solution.
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